Calene Blazer Gown

Brief issued from the bulk pattern of style 125-6108-D.

• Length finished at 58" from HPS; satin contrast at collar and lapel
• Front and back princess pleats per sketch
• 2 self-covered buttons at CF plus 2 hidden corozo buttons below
• Double welt with pocket flaps at front hip; CB vent replacing the reverse vent

The big engineering round: pattern, fusibles, button ladder and pleat behavior all corrected at once.

• Front princess seams converted to darts; collar and stand revised to self, satin kept on lapel only
• Fusible weights tuned in both directions: one step lighter on collar, one step heavier on flimsy pocket flaps
• Button ladder rebuilt: 1st button ½" below the lapel break, last 25" from HPS, holes moved ⅛" toward the edge
• Fit pass: front armhole −½", back scooped +¼", bust and across-back +½", hip curve −½", front edge corrected to hang plumb
• Pleats spreading open: self and lining seam allowances sewn together, folds hard-creased, facing blind-stitched
• Back neck slashed +⅛" each side so the collar folds down without exposing the stand

Pinned corrections focused on making the pleats and welts production-stable.

• Excess cleaned at back armhole as pinned
• Double welt evened to ¼" both sides; baste stitch loosened to 6–8 SPI
• 8" blind stitch added inside each pleat and an X-stitch at every pleat base for shipping
• No over-pressing; hem heights even at body and sleeve

Movement round: the sleeve was restricting reach, so the cap was re-balanced instead of just re-measured.

• Underarm pulling: sleeve inseam +½" from top edge, cap height reduced, cap width +½"
• Front armhole −¼"; back armhole bubbling reduced −¼" blending to zero across back
• Dress length brought back to spec −¾"
• CF button levels corrected and buttons re-sewn; side seam bump shaved to straighten the seam