Seven · for Sam's Club · Fall 2020

NewStraight 4-Way Stretch Jean

SN1955H3 · Denim · Men's · Technical Development · Costing

Costing breakdown ↓The 36-point audit ↓View the full tech pack ↓

Volume denim is won twice: once at the negotiating table and once on the measuring table. This straight-leg 4-way-stretch jean for Sam's Club was issued as a costing tech pack, where every trim article, thread code and wash standard is specified tightly enough for a factory to quote real money against it. It then runs a 36-point measurement spec across a 28–44 size range, with every sample round audited in fractions of an inch. The second fit, a pre-production sample in black rinse, is shown here exactly as reviewed: target against actual on all 36 points, with the dispositions that sent it to top of production.

Style #: SN1955H3
Pack type: Costing tech pack
Measurement spec: 36 points of measure
Fabric: 4-way stretch denim, new black
Wash: Black rinse
Size range: Waist 28–44 · 3 inseams · base 32×32

Fully annotated cover sketch of the SN1955H3 straight-leg jean

Costing · the lead skill on this program

Costing: a pack a factory can put a price on

This entire pack was issued for costing. Before a single fit sample was sewn, the tech pack had to be tight enough for a factory to quote real money against it: every trim carries an article number and supplier code, every thread a color, ply and stitch count, every operation a named construction standard, and the wash a physical reference. When nothing is left ambiguous, the factory has nothing to pad the quote with, and the counter-sample can be held to exactly what was priced.

Every cost driver on a volume jean is specified here: fabric scope set by the size range, the black-rinse wash standard, hardware priced line by line on the trim sheets, sewing labor pinned down by seam types and stitch counts, and the label and packaging package that closes out the landed cost. This is the document the negotiation was built on.

Trim sheet 1: hardware with article numbers and supplier codes, priced line by line

Trim sheet 2: labels, patches and packaging

Wash standard: the black rinse the quote is priced against

Pocket bag construction: sewing operations that set the labor cost

Embroidery and thread spec: decoration cost, coded

Style properties: fabric, size range and delivery scope

Garment engineering

One page, every construction decision

The cover sketch is the contract: belt-loop counts and positions, chain-stitch callouts, thread codes (GUN# 8010), rivet and shank specs, felled seams, bartack positions. The supporting pages zoom into what a sewing line actually needs.

Cover sketch with full construction callouts

Pocket embroidery & thread specification

Fit review · April 13, 2020

The 36-point measurement spec, audited

A 36-point spec means nothing on the garment moves without being noticed: waistband, rises, thigh-to-hem taper, pocket geometry, belt loops, down to the width of the J-stitch. This is the actual size-chart review from the second fit, with every point measured against its tolerance and dispositioned: on spec, within tolerance (keep), or BTS, meaning bring it back to spec before production.

Sample

2nd fit · PP fit, production fabric

Wash

Black rinse

Reviewed by

Fit engineer (Sonia)

Result

Passed → proceed to TOP

PASSED TO TOP, fit with corrections. “Overall fit: much improved!” Must submit 0% shrinkage paper pattern with TOP submit.

Bring back to spec (BTS) where indicated
Keep as sample where indicated
Workmanship OK as sample; follow all trims, packaging and positions in TOP submit

33 points measured21 dead on spec9 within tolerance3 sent back to spec

Dim	Point of measure	Tol ±	Target	Measured	Delta	Disposition
JPS001b	Waistband width @ mid WB	½	34½	34¾	+¼	BTS → correct
JPS002b	WB height (cut on length grain)	⅛	1¾	1⅞	+⅛	In tolerance
JPS005a	High hip @ 2" below waist seam	½	39	38½	−½	BTS → correct
JPS005a	Low hip 3" above crotch (3-point)	½	42¼	42	−¼	In tolerance
JPS007a	Front rise below WB seam	¼	9	9	0	On spec
JPS008a	Back rise below WB seam	¼	13½	13½	0	On spec
JPS009	Thigh 1" below crotch	½	24½	24¾	+¼	BTS → correct
JPS011b	Knee 14" below crotch	⅜	16	16	0	On spec
JPS013	Leg opening	⅜	15	15	0	On spec
JPS012	Inseam (32)	½	32	32	0	On spec
JPS014b	Fly front length to bottom of J-stitch	¼	5⅜	5⅜	0	On spec
JPS016	Zipper length	¼	4½	4½	0	On spec
JPS015	J-stitch width to outer J-stitch	⅛	1¾	1¾	0	On spec
JPS017b	Front pocket horizontal from side seam	¼	4½	4½	0	On spec
JPS018a	Front pocket height vertical below waist	¼	2½	2⅜	−⅛	In tolerance
JPS021	Coin pocket placement from side seam	⅛	⅝	½	−⅛	In tolerance
JPS020a	Coin pocket below waist seam	⅛	1	⅞	−⅛	In tolerance
JPS019	Coin pocket width @ top	¼	3¼	3⅜	+⅛	In tolerance
JPS025	Side back yoke height below WB @ SS	⅛	1	1	0	On spec
JPS024	CB yoke height below WB @ CB	¼	2¼	2¼	0	On spec
JPS026	Back pocket position from CB	⅛	2	1⅞	−⅛	In tolerance
JPS027	Back pocket set below yoke @ CB	⅛	1½	1½	0	On spec
JPS028a	Back pocket set below yoke @ SS	⅛/¼	1⅞	2	+⅛	In tolerance
JPS029a	Back pocket width @ top	¼	6⅝	6⅝	0	On spec
JPS030a	Back pocket width @ bottom	¼	5¼	5¼	0	On spec
JPS030a	Back pocket length @ center	¼	6⅝	6⅝	0	On spec
JPS030a	Back pocket length @ side	¼	5⅝	5⅝	0	On spec
JPS033a	Bottom hem height	⅛	½	½	0	On spec
JPS023	Belt loop length	⅛	2¾	2¾	0	On spec
JPS022	Belt loop width	⅛	⅝	⅝	0	On spec
JPS034b	Front pocket bag length below waist	¼	9¾	9⅝	−⅛	In tolerance
JPS036a	Side cord topstitch length below WB	¼	10	10	0	On spec
JPS035	Side back loop set from side seam	¼	½	½	0	On spec